| 2024_street_stock_rules_fullsize.pdf |
2024 LUCKY 7S PROMOTIONS SUPER- STOCK FULL-SIZE RULES
Driver Entry
General Driver Rules & Expectations:
1. Drivers must be at least 16 years old. Under 18 years old must have a parental release.
2. Drivers may have one rider if so desired. This rider must be registered as a rider prior to start of events and also pay an additional entry fee. Riders must also abide by all event regulations. If you register as a driver you must remain the driver throughout the event. Only the driver will be eligible for any money awarded.
3. Drivers are responsible for passengers’ actions while on the track,
4. Drivers may use as many pit personals as desired.
5. Drivers, riders, and crew members must attend pit meetings. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
6. Drivers and all people entering pit area must sign Entry Form and Release of Liability Form prior to entering pit area. Anyone that will be in the pits will have to pay an entry fee (driver, rider, crew and anyone staying in the pits). NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!
7. Authorized vehicles only will be allowed in the pit area. No personal vehicles are allowed.
8. A maximum of 5 mph must be always obeyed in the pit area. NO hot rodding in the pit area. This is the fastest way to be disqualified.
9. After entering pit area, all cars are to be inspected in the tech area as soon as possible. ALL cars must be teched and registered 30 minutes before show time.
If you don’t pass inspection, you will be allowed to make the necessary repairs and be re-inspected within 30 minutes prior to the start of the first heat.
***IF CAR DOES NOT PASS INSPECTION OR DRIVER IS UNWILLING TO CHANGE CAR TO PASS INSPECTION ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS!!***
Participation regulations
5. All drivers and crew members must attend the drivers’ meeting.
6. DO NOT hit the driver's door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don't use your door as a shield as it may cause you to get disqualified, build your car to take a driver door hit, accidents do happen!
7. Any open door will cause disqualification.
8. 2 fires and you’re out.
9. NO sandbagging or holding!! You will be disqualified. You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up. Only 3 seconds and daylight are allowed for holding.
10. No hot rodding in the pits! Keep it at an idle. This is the fastest way to get disqualified!
11. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $250 protest fee and you must be a driver in the top 5 in the feature in order to protest. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to protest.
12. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers’ meeting.
13. Any questions give us a call! If it does not say you can do it, don't do it, call first. Judges decisions are final!! 573-375-0148 CALL OR TEXT!
This is not a set of rules, but a set of guidelines of how to build your car. If it doesn’t say you can specifically do something, then you can’t. Please call if you have any questions on this!!! 573-375-0148 or 573-375-1717
Car Preparation:
NO PAINTING /UNDERCOATING OF THE FRAME. NO BUFFING OR GRIDING FRAMES OR BODIES EXCEPT WHERE WELDING IS SPECIFICIALLY ALLOWED IN THESE RULES. NO PAINTING IN THE INSIDE OF THE BODY OR CAR. IF THIS IS DONE THE CAR WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
1. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions: NO 1970 or older Lincolns and NO 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, and limousines.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is specifically stated in these rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard and properly secured/covered.
6. All cars must have working brakes during inspection. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
7. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, except than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
Plate Rule:
8 Plates measuring 6x6x1/8
Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max. They cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all
Bumper:
Bumpers Brackets - No more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets may be from any car that is legal to run in your class and on only one side of the frame. Bumper brackets must be one of the two following methods.
#1– factory bumper bracket that is legal to a car in your class may not extend any further back than the first 14” of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass only), on one side of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. All brackets must touch the bumper and cannot be cut apart to lengthened. No part of the bumper bracket may extend back further than 14” from the front edge of the frame rail
OR
#2 - INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 3/8” thick plate extending from your bumper down either a side, or the top, or bottom of the frame choose only one cannot wrap a corner with it and cannot be any longer 14”. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be reconfigured but must stay only 4” wide max. Do not bend plate past 90 degrees when you reconfigure the plate. Plate may be welded on either side of the frame or the top or bottom, your choice. Do not abuse this rule YOU WILL CUT.
Bumpers –
Stock Bumper - You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper, all material must be inside the factory front and rear bumper skins with no alterations. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed.
Manufactured Bumper - If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must conform to the following size limits. The bumper may be built up to have a 15” point from the farthest point from the back side of the bumper to the point, however the point itself may be no more than a factory Chrysler pointy itself and spanning over a 36” span across the bumper. They may be 8” tall.
Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location and must be mounted in the same location the factory mounted the bumper. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
Rear Bumper Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no longer than 14” on the frame. Wagons do not weld the bumpers to the body or move the bumper to the back frame rails.
Frame
Frame Shortening and Tilting:
You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches minimum from the front a arm mount hole to the front edge of the frame and frame must be cut square. *80s and newer cars are allowed to cold bend in one location or cut factory seems apart to bend their cars down as long as no more than the 12” of weld (referred to in next rule) is used to. Do not abuse this rule or you will cut. No cars 1980 or older are allowed frame shape alterations.
Frame Welding:
You can weld top and bottom factory seam A-arms forward. You are allowed a total of 12” of weld behind the a-arms and the weld must be marked with fluorescent green paint. If you extend past the 12” you will cut daylight out of the frame seam to get it back to 12”. If any welds are ground down to hide you will remove that frame section piece.
Rust Repair –
Body – cut rusted section completely out, replace with same thickness sheet metal. Must drill ½ inch hole. Only allowed a 2-inch overlap.
Frame – Cut rusted out section completely. Replace it with an up to 1/8-inch plate. Can only be butt welded, no overlap. MUST have ½ inch hole drilled in replacement plate. MUST SEND PICTURES BEFORE DOING SO
Frame Shaping – NO frame shaping is allowed.
You may not relocate any brackets on the frame. This mainly pertains to 1972 and older Cadillacs relocating torsion bar brackets to cut frame shorter, all brackets on all cars must stay stock with no alterations.
Front Suspension:
Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame.
Tie Rods and Ball Joints – Aftermarket tie rod tubes are allowed (no “Big Chiefs”) with stock size tie rod.
Only stock size car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends. If using a weld in ring for ball joint it can not be any bigger than 2” tall by 3” in diameter, do not weld to the frame only the a-arm
A-Arms - A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be reinforced. If welded, it may only use up to 2- 2x4x1/8” thick strap per a arm. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. All a-arms must bolt through the factory holes. COIL SPRINGS must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement. hydraulic steering set-ups allowed. Gear box must bolt to factory holes.
Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running.
Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles
Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
Rear Suspension:
Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 2” stagger and no springs
can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than
3/8" thick and no wider than 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack
and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 2” stagger. You can clamp
springs, 4 homemade clamps per leaf pack. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. Eyelets
must be in factory location of the car you are running. 2” positive arch one direction from center
of eyelet to eyelet. Springs have to be factory length to the car your running. No short sprung or
longer springs. If you do one or the other you’ll have to change them out. The front and rear
bracket has to be the factory bracket. You must have a working shackle throughout the event.
Call if you question it. No leaf conversions on a factory coil spring car.
Coil Springs- You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount.
Mounting- You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. This is a standard chain link do not use long 3/8 mooring chain links
Or
you may use 2- 1” all thread going from your rear end through the package tray to hold your rear end in. This may not go through the body.
Use all-thread or chain not both!!
WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS - They must bolt to package tray with 4 – ½” diam. and 1 -¾” Bolt. No welding of the upper brackets to package tray. The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail with a mounting plate of no bigger than 8” square. The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the same way as a 97 and older ford. Lower frame brackets may be ¼” X 6” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located. All unused brackets must be removed from frame.
No gussets may be used on these lower brackets.
Trailing Arms -You may use loaded factory trailing arms or you can manufacture homemade trailing arms out of 2”x3” square tubing, both styles must pivot on both ends and have rubber bushings. They
must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. The upper control
arms maybe lengthen or shorted but the lowers must be factory length.
Rear- Ends:
Use rear end of choice, nothing heavier than an 8 lug rear end. You can tilt rear end if you wish.
Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 ½” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing.
No changing out rear package trays on frame. - You must use the factory brackets that came with the car you are running unless Watts Link than see the Watts Link rules. No relocating brackets on the frame. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using.
Tires:
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled tires are okay. Doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead.
Bead locks are allowed. They must not go past the rubber on the inside of the tire and the outside must remain inside the factory lip of the rim.
Solid tires are allowed
Motor:
Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed. Mid Plates are NOT allowed. Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber bushing attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower cradle and pulley protector if the sway bar is removed. You may run the front plate for the engine cradle but can not extend back at all. This is to try and save motor mounts do not abuse this rule. Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything. No other protectors allowed on motor or in motor area. You are also allowed a 6”x6” mounting pad for your motor, this must be attached to the engine cradle only and not come in contact with the side rails at all.
In addition, you may weld two straight bars (one per side) extending back off the back side of
your lower cradle and connecting them to the steel bell or your adapter plate between the steel
bell and the block. These bars must a max of 2x2 square tubing. This is strictly to help not break
blocks. If we have felt, you have gone extreme and are using them to help strengthen the car
you will cut. No repair plates may attach to these bars.
Transmission Brace and Skid Plate:
You may run multiple bars down or one solid plate that conforms to the transmission. If these
bars or plate catch the sheet metal excessively you will be required to cut reliefs into the
transmission tunnel. Your trans brace can only be 12” were it meets the transmission cross
member, measured from the center of the tail shaft 6” each direction. Trans brace may be no
more than 2” off the transmission housing. You are allowed to build a 90-degree angle where it
meets the transmission cross member and it may be tied down with 6 inches of weld.
Transmission Cross Member:
You may use a straight piece of 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours and must be mounted in the stock location on the transmission. It must be straight from rail to rail.
NO HOMEMADE TRANNY CROSS MEMBERS one piece of tubing
2x2x1/4”tubing is the only crossmember you are allowed, no stock crossmembers
No stock crossmember only 2”x2”x1/4” tubing
Tranny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to reinforce the crossmember, must be welded to the frame and crossmember. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. The
transmission crossmember and supporting angle iron cannot touch the frame extensions on the
Cadillac.
Body
Body Shaping- Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
#9 Wire- You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops). You can weld 5/8” washer for 9 wire to run through on body. Must go from body to body or body to frame. Can not connect to cage or driveline
components but may bank off of them freely.
You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1
loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole,
or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not
reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk
floor if you choose.
Radiators- For mounting radiators you may use (4)- ½” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6”
1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. NO radiator
guards allowed. Only factory condenser in front of radiator. Must only be bolted to body with 4-
3/8” bolts.
Body Mounts- Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1/2” bolts and can only be 8-inches long, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 4x4x ¼” washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame with up to a 2x3x ¼” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may not weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 2” square material and must stop on the bottom of the core support and top of the frame. The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location. Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
Hood & Front Clip – Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 6 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 6 bolts. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars.
You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round. Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
Firewall- DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides cutting out for distributor.
Window Bar- - For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the
car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you
remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The
removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The
horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No
more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material
allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars
cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the
firewall.
Doors- You may weld your doors solid with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may fold tops of doors over and weld the outer skin and inner skin together, but you are not allowed to add any material. If you chose not to weld, they must be tied shut in six locations using ½” bolts no longer than 6”, 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points. You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
Cage
All cage material must be no larger than 6” od, unless specified for a specific rule. It must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which no sheet metal cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace you dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. Side bars including roll over may be a max length 62 inches long. Side bars may be any dimension but must remain off the floor everywhere 4 in, they must remain 6 inches away from firewall and rear sheet metal. This is for drivers safety, not to strengthen the car, if we feel you have pushed this, you will cut!
Mopar’s are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first.
Gas Tank Protector- You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 30” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection but must stay within the gas tank dimensions. It may be tight to rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be
removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tanks will also
follow the gas tank protector rules.
Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers:
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
Trunks
You may weld your trunk lid shut 5” on 5” off along the factory seam with 3”x5” 1/8” material. You
can fold hoods or trunk lid over do not weld any made seem that didn’t meet up factory. Do not
slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock
shape but may be folded in but keep it clean. You may dish the trunk but must have two 6”x6”
inspection holes in the trunk lid for inspection.
No altering the speaker decks
(2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, If welded to the frame it
must come straight down from the trunk lid and can only be welded 4 inches vertically.
If it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.
GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be
followed.
03 & Newer Rules:
1. Must use factory rack & pinon, no steering box conversions.
2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. May use aftermarket tie rods.
4. Struts, spindles, a arms may be switched to a direct bolt on. No cutting, welding, and fabbing to make it work. May add a strut spacer, lower spacer can not be bigger than 2 ½” in diameter.
5. Engine Mounting, you may use a cradle like grey area or budde cradle or you can fab your own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt through each aluminum tower, no other attachment points and must remain 1⁄2 inch off the side rail. Repair plates may not be used to tie cradle into the rails.
6. Watts link conversions are allowed, look in watts link conversion section above.
7. No frame seam welding.
Driver Entry
General Driver Rules & Expectations:
1. Drivers must be at least 16 years old. Under 18 years old must have a parental release.
2. Drivers may have one rider if so desired. This rider must be registered as a rider prior to start of events and also pay an additional entry fee. Riders must also abide by all event regulations. If you register as a driver you must remain the driver throughout the event. Only the driver will be eligible for any money awarded.
3. Drivers are responsible for passengers’ actions while on the track,
4. Drivers may use as many pit personals as desired.
5. Drivers, riders, and crew members must attend pit meetings. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
6. Drivers and all people entering pit area must sign Entry Form and Release of Liability Form prior to entering pit area. Anyone that will be in the pits will have to pay an entry fee (driver, rider, crew and anyone staying in the pits). NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!
7. Authorized vehicles only will be allowed in the pit area. No personal vehicles are allowed.
8. A maximum of 5 mph must be always obeyed in the pit area. NO hot rodding in the pit area. This is the fastest way to be disqualified.
9. After entering pit area, all cars are to be inspected in the tech area as soon as possible. ALL cars must be teched and registered 30 minutes before show time.
If you don’t pass inspection, you will be allowed to make the necessary repairs and be re-inspected within 30 minutes prior to the start of the first heat.
***IF CAR DOES NOT PASS INSPECTION OR DRIVER IS UNWILLING TO CHANGE CAR TO PASS INSPECTION ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS!!***
Participation regulations
- You may run any engine in any qualifying car.
- Cars will battle it out until last car(s) standing.
- Heats are to be expected! Bring extra parts!
5. All drivers and crew members must attend the drivers’ meeting.
6. DO NOT hit the driver's door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don't use your door as a shield as it may cause you to get disqualified, build your car to take a driver door hit, accidents do happen!
7. Any open door will cause disqualification.
8. 2 fires and you’re out.
9. NO sandbagging or holding!! You will be disqualified. You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up. Only 3 seconds and daylight are allowed for holding.
10. No hot rodding in the pits! Keep it at an idle. This is the fastest way to get disqualified!
11. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $250 protest fee and you must be a driver in the top 5 in the feature in order to protest. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to protest.
12. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers’ meeting.
13. Any questions give us a call! If it does not say you can do it, don't do it, call first. Judges decisions are final!! 573-375-0148 CALL OR TEXT!
This is not a set of rules, but a set of guidelines of how to build your car. If it doesn’t say you can specifically do something, then you can’t. Please call if you have any questions on this!!! 573-375-0148 or 573-375-1717
Car Preparation:
NO PAINTING /UNDERCOATING OF THE FRAME. NO BUFFING OR GRIDING FRAMES OR BODIES EXCEPT WHERE WELDING IS SPECIFICIALLY ALLOWED IN THESE RULES. NO PAINTING IN THE INSIDE OF THE BODY OR CAR. IF THIS IS DONE THE CAR WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
1. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions: NO 1970 or older Lincolns and NO 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, and limousines.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is specifically stated in these rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard and properly secured/covered.
6. All cars must have working brakes during inspection. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
7. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, except than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
Plate Rule:
8 Plates measuring 6x6x1/8
Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max. They cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all
Bumper:
Bumpers Brackets - No more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets may be from any car that is legal to run in your class and on only one side of the frame. Bumper brackets must be one of the two following methods.
#1– factory bumper bracket that is legal to a car in your class may not extend any further back than the first 14” of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass only), on one side of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. All brackets must touch the bumper and cannot be cut apart to lengthened. No part of the bumper bracket may extend back further than 14” from the front edge of the frame rail
OR
#2 - INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 3/8” thick plate extending from your bumper down either a side, or the top, or bottom of the frame choose only one cannot wrap a corner with it and cannot be any longer 14”. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be reconfigured but must stay only 4” wide max. Do not bend plate past 90 degrees when you reconfigure the plate. Plate may be welded on either side of the frame or the top or bottom, your choice. Do not abuse this rule YOU WILL CUT.
Bumpers –
Stock Bumper - You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper, all material must be inside the factory front and rear bumper skins with no alterations. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed.
Manufactured Bumper - If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must conform to the following size limits. The bumper may be built up to have a 15” point from the farthest point from the back side of the bumper to the point, however the point itself may be no more than a factory Chrysler pointy itself and spanning over a 36” span across the bumper. They may be 8” tall.
Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location and must be mounted in the same location the factory mounted the bumper. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
Rear Bumper Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no longer than 14” on the frame. Wagons do not weld the bumpers to the body or move the bumper to the back frame rails.
Frame
Frame Shortening and Tilting:
You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches minimum from the front a arm mount hole to the front edge of the frame and frame must be cut square. *80s and newer cars are allowed to cold bend in one location or cut factory seems apart to bend their cars down as long as no more than the 12” of weld (referred to in next rule) is used to. Do not abuse this rule or you will cut. No cars 1980 or older are allowed frame shape alterations.
Frame Welding:
You can weld top and bottom factory seam A-arms forward. You are allowed a total of 12” of weld behind the a-arms and the weld must be marked with fluorescent green paint. If you extend past the 12” you will cut daylight out of the frame seam to get it back to 12”. If any welds are ground down to hide you will remove that frame section piece.
Rust Repair –
Body – cut rusted section completely out, replace with same thickness sheet metal. Must drill ½ inch hole. Only allowed a 2-inch overlap.
Frame – Cut rusted out section completely. Replace it with an up to 1/8-inch plate. Can only be butt welded, no overlap. MUST have ½ inch hole drilled in replacement plate. MUST SEND PICTURES BEFORE DOING SO
Frame Shaping – NO frame shaping is allowed.
You may not relocate any brackets on the frame. This mainly pertains to 1972 and older Cadillacs relocating torsion bar brackets to cut frame shorter, all brackets on all cars must stay stock with no alterations.
Front Suspension:
Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame.
Tie Rods and Ball Joints – Aftermarket tie rod tubes are allowed (no “Big Chiefs”) with stock size tie rod.
Only stock size car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends. If using a weld in ring for ball joint it can not be any bigger than 2” tall by 3” in diameter, do not weld to the frame only the a-arm
A-Arms - A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be reinforced. If welded, it may only use up to 2- 2x4x1/8” thick strap per a arm. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. All a-arms must bolt through the factory holes. COIL SPRINGS must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement. hydraulic steering set-ups allowed. Gear box must bolt to factory holes.
Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running.
Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles
Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
Rear Suspension:
Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 2” stagger and no springs
can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than
3/8" thick and no wider than 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack
and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 2” stagger. You can clamp
springs, 4 homemade clamps per leaf pack. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. Eyelets
must be in factory location of the car you are running. 2” positive arch one direction from center
of eyelet to eyelet. Springs have to be factory length to the car your running. No short sprung or
longer springs. If you do one or the other you’ll have to change them out. The front and rear
bracket has to be the factory bracket. You must have a working shackle throughout the event.
Call if you question it. No leaf conversions on a factory coil spring car.
Coil Springs- You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount.
Mounting- You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. This is a standard chain link do not use long 3/8 mooring chain links
Or
you may use 2- 1” all thread going from your rear end through the package tray to hold your rear end in. This may not go through the body.
Use all-thread or chain not both!!
WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS - They must bolt to package tray with 4 – ½” diam. and 1 -¾” Bolt. No welding of the upper brackets to package tray. The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail with a mounting plate of no bigger than 8” square. The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the same way as a 97 and older ford. Lower frame brackets may be ¼” X 6” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located. All unused brackets must be removed from frame.
No gussets may be used on these lower brackets.
Trailing Arms -You may use loaded factory trailing arms or you can manufacture homemade trailing arms out of 2”x3” square tubing, both styles must pivot on both ends and have rubber bushings. They
must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. The upper control
arms maybe lengthen or shorted but the lowers must be factory length.
Rear- Ends:
Use rear end of choice, nothing heavier than an 8 lug rear end. You can tilt rear end if you wish.
Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 ½” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing.
No changing out rear package trays on frame. - You must use the factory brackets that came with the car you are running unless Watts Link than see the Watts Link rules. No relocating brackets on the frame. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using.
Tires:
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled tires are okay. Doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead.
Bead locks are allowed. They must not go past the rubber on the inside of the tire and the outside must remain inside the factory lip of the rim.
Solid tires are allowed
Motor:
Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed. Mid Plates are NOT allowed. Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber bushing attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower cradle and pulley protector if the sway bar is removed. You may run the front plate for the engine cradle but can not extend back at all. This is to try and save motor mounts do not abuse this rule. Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything. No other protectors allowed on motor or in motor area. You are also allowed a 6”x6” mounting pad for your motor, this must be attached to the engine cradle only and not come in contact with the side rails at all.
In addition, you may weld two straight bars (one per side) extending back off the back side of
your lower cradle and connecting them to the steel bell or your adapter plate between the steel
bell and the block. These bars must a max of 2x2 square tubing. This is strictly to help not break
blocks. If we have felt, you have gone extreme and are using them to help strengthen the car
you will cut. No repair plates may attach to these bars.
Transmission Brace and Skid Plate:
You may run multiple bars down or one solid plate that conforms to the transmission. If these
bars or plate catch the sheet metal excessively you will be required to cut reliefs into the
transmission tunnel. Your trans brace can only be 12” were it meets the transmission cross
member, measured from the center of the tail shaft 6” each direction. Trans brace may be no
more than 2” off the transmission housing. You are allowed to build a 90-degree angle where it
meets the transmission cross member and it may be tied down with 6 inches of weld.
Transmission Cross Member:
You may use a straight piece of 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours and must be mounted in the stock location on the transmission. It must be straight from rail to rail.
NO HOMEMADE TRANNY CROSS MEMBERS one piece of tubing
2x2x1/4”tubing is the only crossmember you are allowed, no stock crossmembers
No stock crossmember only 2”x2”x1/4” tubing
Tranny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to reinforce the crossmember, must be welded to the frame and crossmember. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. The
transmission crossmember and supporting angle iron cannot touch the frame extensions on the
Cadillac.
Body
Body Shaping- Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
#9 Wire- You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops). You can weld 5/8” washer for 9 wire to run through on body. Must go from body to body or body to frame. Can not connect to cage or driveline
components but may bank off of them freely.
You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1
loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole,
or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not
reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk
floor if you choose.
Radiators- For mounting radiators you may use (4)- ½” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6”
1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. NO radiator
guards allowed. Only factory condenser in front of radiator. Must only be bolted to body with 4-
3/8” bolts.
Body Mounts- Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1/2” bolts and can only be 8-inches long, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 4x4x ¼” washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame with up to a 2x3x ¼” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may not weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 2” square material and must stop on the bottom of the core support and top of the frame. The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location. Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
Hood & Front Clip – Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 6 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 6 bolts. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars.
You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round. Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
Firewall- DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides cutting out for distributor.
Window Bar- - For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the
car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you
remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The
removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The
horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No
more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material
allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars
cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the
firewall.
Doors- You may weld your doors solid with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may fold tops of doors over and weld the outer skin and inner skin together, but you are not allowed to add any material. If you chose not to weld, they must be tied shut in six locations using ½” bolts no longer than 6”, 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points. You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
Cage
All cage material must be no larger than 6” od, unless specified for a specific rule. It must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which no sheet metal cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace you dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. Side bars including roll over may be a max length 62 inches long. Side bars may be any dimension but must remain off the floor everywhere 4 in, they must remain 6 inches away from firewall and rear sheet metal. This is for drivers safety, not to strengthen the car, if we feel you have pushed this, you will cut!
Mopar’s are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first.
Gas Tank Protector- You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 30” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection but must stay within the gas tank dimensions. It may be tight to rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be
removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tanks will also
follow the gas tank protector rules.
Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers:
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
Trunks
You may weld your trunk lid shut 5” on 5” off along the factory seam with 3”x5” 1/8” material. You
can fold hoods or trunk lid over do not weld any made seem that didn’t meet up factory. Do not
slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock
shape but may be folded in but keep it clean. You may dish the trunk but must have two 6”x6”
inspection holes in the trunk lid for inspection.
No altering the speaker decks
(2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, If welded to the frame it
must come straight down from the trunk lid and can only be welded 4 inches vertically.
If it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.
GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be
followed.
03 & Newer Rules:
1. Must use factory rack & pinon, no steering box conversions.
2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. May use aftermarket tie rods.
4. Struts, spindles, a arms may be switched to a direct bolt on. No cutting, welding, and fabbing to make it work. May add a strut spacer, lower spacer can not be bigger than 2 ½” in diameter.
5. Engine Mounting, you may use a cradle like grey area or budde cradle or you can fab your own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt through each aluminum tower, no other attachment points and must remain 1⁄2 inch off the side rail. Repair plates may not be used to tie cradle into the rails.
6. Watts link conversions are allowed, look in watts link conversion section above.
7. No frame seam welding.