THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CANT.
General Driver Rules & Expectations:
1. Drivers must be at least 16 years old. Under 18 years old must have a parental release.
2. Drivers may have one rider if so desired. This rider must be registered as a rider prior to start of events and also pay an additional entry fee. Riders must also abide by all event regulations. If you register as a driver you must remain the driver throughout the event. Only the driver will be eligible for any money awarded.
3. Drivers are responsible for passengers’ actions while on the track,
4. Drivers may use as many pit personals as desired.
5. Drivers, riders, and crew members must attend pit meetings. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
6. Drivers and all people entering pit area must sign Entry Form and Release of Liability Form prior to entering pit area. Anyone that will be in the pits will have to pay entry fee (driver, rider, crew and anyone staying in the pits). NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!
7. Authorized vehicles only will be allowed in the pit area. No personal vehicles are allowed.
8. A maximum of 5 mph must be always obeyed in the pit area. NO hot rodding in the pit area. This is the fastest way to be disqualified.
9. After entering pit area, all cars are to be inspected in the tech area as soon as possible. ALL cars must be teched and registered 30 minutes before show time.
If you don’t pass inspection, you will be allowed to make the necessary repairs and be re-inspected within 30 minutes prior to the start of the first heat.
***IF CAR DOES NOT PASS INSPECTION OR DRIVER IS UNWILLING TO CHANGE CAR TO PASS INSPECTION ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS!!******
Car Building Rules:
DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, if you do we will not even inspect your car.
1. May be any car with the following exceptions
-No 1970 or older Lincolns
-No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub frames
-No 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, Limos, etc.
2. Remove all glass, mirrors, plastic, outside body chrome & turn signals. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris. Also, must remove ALL carpet, dash, headliner, rear seats, and any other flammable materials. Must remove Hitches and braces.
3.ZERO frame shaping, forming or folding. Frame notching is okay, but cannot weld. No spray foam in frames.
Tires/Wheels:
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled tires are okay. Doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead.
Bead locks are allowed. They must not go past the rubber on the inside of the tire and the outside must remain inside the factory lip of the rim.
Solid tires are allowed
BUMPERS
1. Bumpers may be loaded. May use an Aftermarket replica bumper or a bumper approved by Ben.
2. You may hard nose your bumper right to the frame. Wagons must leave bumper in factory position in the rear.
3. Bumper Shocks- May use one of the following options:
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
5. **NO WELDING or Bolting Further than 14” FROM BACK OF BUMPERS FRONT OR REAR** If you have questions about this, please call.
6. Bumpers can be no higher than 21’’ from the ground to the bottom of the bumper OR lower than 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper.
7. Back bumper/bumper bracket rules are the same as the front.
Drive Train
1.ANY drivetrain allowed with the following criteria. Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed. Mid Plates are NOT allowed. Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory engine mount or aftermarket mount, with rubber bushing attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
2.NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower. You may run the front plate for the engine cradle but cannot extend back at all. Pulley Protector allowed, but must cut sway bar. This is to try and save motor mounts do not abuse this rule. Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything.
You may run multiple bars down or one solid plate that conforms to the transmission. If these bars or plate catch the sheet metal excessively you will be required to cut reliefs into the transmission tunnel. Your trans brace can only be 12” were it meets the transmission cross member, measured from the center of the tail shaft 6” each direction. Trans brace may be no more than 2” off the transmission housing. You are allowed to build a 90-degree angle where it meets the transmission cross member and it may be tied down with 6 inches of weld.
Cross Member:
You may use a straight piece of 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours and must be mounted in the stock location on the transmission. It must be straight from rail to rail.
Tranny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to reinforce the crossmember, must be welded to the frame and crossmember. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. The transmission crossmember and supporting angle iron cannot touch the frame extensions on the Cadillac.
FRAMES
1.) You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches minimum from the front a arm mount hole to the front edge of the frame and frame must be cut square.
2,) 80s and newer cars are allowed to cold bend in one location or cut factory seems apart to bend their cars down as long as no more than the 12” of weld (referred to in next rule) is used to. Do not abuse this rule or you will cut. No cars 1980 or older are allowed frame shape alterations.
3.) You can weld top and bottom factory seam A-arms forward. You are allowed a total of 12” of weld behind the a-arms and the weld must be marked with fluorescent green paint. If you extend past the 12” you will cut daylight out of the frame seam to get it back to 12”. If any welds are ground down to hide you will remove that frame section piece.
9. All factory frame holes must be left open.
10. Any reinforcement of the frame found will result in disqualification
Front SUSPENSION
1.)Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame.
2. Store bought twist in spring spacers are allowed but no metal allowed above top of spring
3. may kick or change coil springs. Must be factory passenger car springs only.
4. two- 2x4x1/4’ straps allowed per a-arm
5. Aftermarket tie rod tubes are allowed (no “Big Chiefs”) with stock size tie rod.
4. Factory spindle swaps are ok- Ford to Chevy, etc. must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
6. Only stock size car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends. If using a weld in ring for ball joint it can not be any bigger than 2” tall by 3” in diameter, do not weld to the frame only the a-arm.
6. You may change A-arms from new style to old style A-arms. Must bolt on- No welding.
7. No all-thread shocks
8. No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame or suspension.
12. Aftermarket steering columns are ok. No Hydro Steering
Rear Suspension:
1. Any rear end allowed. No bracing within 8’’ of frame. Or 4’’ of sheet metal
2. Slider drive shaft is permitted.
3. No leaf spring conversions
4. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 2” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 2” stagger. You can clamp springs, 4 homemade clamps per leaf pack. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. Eyelets must be in factory location of the car you are running. 2” positive arch one direction from center of eyelet to eyelet. Springs have to be factory length to the car your running. No short sprung or longer springs. If you do one or the other you’ll have to change them out. The front and rear bracket has to be the factory bracket. You must have a working shackle throughout the event. Call if you question it.
Coil Springs- You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above.
14. Mounting- You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. This is a standard chain link do not use long 3/8 mooring chain links
Or
you may use 2- 1” all thread going from your rear end through the package tray to hold your rear end in. This may not go through the body.
Use all-thread or chain not both!!
WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS - They must bolt to package tray with 4 – ½” diam. and 1 -¾” Bolt. No welding of the upper brackets to package tray. The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail with a mounting plate of no bigger than 8” square. The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the same way as a 97 and older ford. Lower frame brackets may be ¼” X 6” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located. All unused brackets must be removed from frame.
No gussets may be used on these lower brackets.
Trailing Arms -You may use loaded factory trailing arms or you can manufacture homemade trailing arms out of 2”x3” square tubing, both styles must pivot on both ends and have rubber bushings. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. The upper control arms maybe lengthen or shorted but the lowers must be factory length.
BODY
1. Can change body mounts with 3/4’ body bolts with 2x3x1/4” washer and 1 inch body spacer is mandatory, must be free floating (no welding). Max 8” long. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck body down tight to frame, must be space.
3. No doubling of body panels allowed. No added metal allowed.
4. Doors may be welded solid. Driver and passenger door can have a skin. Skin can be 2’ past door seam.
8. May cut any metal out, No welding on frame.
9. Rust Repair- must be approved. Must send pictures and be approved beforehand. Hole in repair plate will be mandatory.
#9 Wire- You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops). You can weld 5/8” washer for 9 wire to run through on body. Must go from body to body or body to frame. Can not connect to cage or driveline components.
You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the
car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you
remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The
removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The
horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the firewall.
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT
1. Radiator must be in stock position.
2. Any automotive type of radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are okay.
3. DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPPORT.
4. Factory condenser may be bolted in with (4) - 3/8 bolts. NO radiator
guards allowed.
5. Core support spacer must be no bigger than 2x2. You are allowed to weld this on either the top side or bottom, NOT BOTH.
6. May change bolts for Core support to (1’’ threaded rod max) Cannot sleeve all thread. Max of 4 nuts per all thread.
7. (2) 6’’x3’’ x ⅛ flat strap with 4 pieces of ⅜ threaded rod to hold radiator in. Bolted or welded to the core support.
CORE SUPPORT AND CORE SUPPORT MOUNT MUST REMAIN IN FACTORY LOCATION. You may shorten the front frame up to the front body mount, cannot remove the front body mount.
HOODS
MUST BE OPEN AT INSPECTION!
1. Hoods must have two (2) holes, at least four (4) inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor. (16) ⅜ bolts total may be used to hold sheet metal together around cut outs in hood.
2. Hoods may be secured by the 2 pieces of all thread in the core support. May use a 6x6 washer to hold the hood down.
3. (8) LOCATIONS of #9 wire, 5/16 chain or angle iron 2x2x2 inches long weld to top of the hood and fender with a ½ bolt per location. If using straight allthread 1” all thread with 4x4 washer is permitted.
TRUNK
1. Can weld trunk seam solid off using 3x5x1/8” material. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over do not weld any made seam that didn’t meet up factory. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean. You may dish the trunk but must have two 6”x6” inspection holes in the trunk lid for inspection.
No altering the speaker decks
(2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, If welded to the frame it
must come straight down from the trunk lid and can only be welded 4 inches vertically.
If it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame. GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be followed.
6. 6 bolts per fender, 3/8’ 1/2;’ washer.
CAGE
1. All cars must have a safety cage, the cage is meant for safety not strength. You can not use any part of the cage for reinforcement for the car. All cage material must remain 4” away from any part of the drive train.
2. A 4-point cage is required. Your cage must have a dash bar that must be 6” from the firewall.
3. Your cage must have a bar behind the driver’s seat.
4. You must have (2) side bars 1 per side and they cannot be longer than 60’’. 4’’away from the wheel tub.
5. Roll over bar cannot be more than 8” behind the top of the head rest. Rollover bar cannot attach to frame. Weld or bolt it to sheet metal only. Cannot be attached to any body mounts.
6. Rollover bar can be bolted with 2x2x2” angle to the roof, no kickers coming off the cage or rollover bar.
7. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only besides down bars.
8. (4) down posts two (2) per side. Roll over bar counts as 2 if ran to the floor. Must stay behind the front inside door seam and must stay 4” ahead of the rear body mount inside the cab. You can run a 3rd downtube if for driver/rider protection, must be center of door/driver area.
10. All down tubes must be at or behind the dash bar, straight up and down and above the side rail.
11. Gas tank protectors 24’’ wide max. cannot be within 8” of the roof. Tank protector can touch sheet metal. Rear sheet metal cannot be altered. This cannot be pressured into the speaker deck or extend to the trunk area.
13. All down bars / bars / rear bars and halo must be within the 60” door bars. Not in front or behind door bars.
14. Must have (2) 3x ¼” flat strap window bars or #9 wire, chain from roof to cowl. Must bolt in. No welding, cannot re-enforce the car. Sheet metal to sheet metal only.
Plate Rule: Cars are allowed an additional 8 square 6x6x1/8 plates. Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max. They cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all, including cradles/protectors.
03 & Newer Rules:
1. Must use factory rack & pinon, no steering box conversions.
2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. May use aftermarket tie rods.
4. Struts, spindles, a arms may be switched to a direct bolt on. No cutting, welding, and fabbing to make it work. May add a strut spacer, lower spacer can not be bigger than 2 ½” in diameter.
5. Engine Mounting, you may use a cradle like grey area or budde cradle or you can fab your own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt through each aluminum tower, no other attachment points and must remain 1⁄2 inch off the side rail. Repair plates may not be used to tie cradle into the rails.
6. Watts link conversions are allowed, look in watts link conversion section above.
7. No frame seam welding.
Call if you have questions, simple build. Don’t try to read into the rules, you simply will not run. This is a quick easy build.
Ben Porter Head Tech- 573-692-0794 Joshua Wood (573)375-0148
General Driver Rules & Expectations:
1. Drivers must be at least 16 years old. Under 18 years old must have a parental release.
2. Drivers may have one rider if so desired. This rider must be registered as a rider prior to start of events and also pay an additional entry fee. Riders must also abide by all event regulations. If you register as a driver you must remain the driver throughout the event. Only the driver will be eligible for any money awarded.
3. Drivers are responsible for passengers’ actions while on the track,
4. Drivers may use as many pit personals as desired.
5. Drivers, riders, and crew members must attend pit meetings. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
6. Drivers and all people entering pit area must sign Entry Form and Release of Liability Form prior to entering pit area. Anyone that will be in the pits will have to pay entry fee (driver, rider, crew and anyone staying in the pits). NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!
7. Authorized vehicles only will be allowed in the pit area. No personal vehicles are allowed.
8. A maximum of 5 mph must be always obeyed in the pit area. NO hot rodding in the pit area. This is the fastest way to be disqualified.
9. After entering pit area, all cars are to be inspected in the tech area as soon as possible. ALL cars must be teched and registered 30 minutes before show time.
If you don’t pass inspection, you will be allowed to make the necessary repairs and be re-inspected within 30 minutes prior to the start of the first heat.
***IF CAR DOES NOT PASS INSPECTION OR DRIVER IS UNWILLING TO CHANGE CAR TO PASS INSPECTION ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS!!******
Car Building Rules:
DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, if you do we will not even inspect your car.
1. May be any car with the following exceptions
-No 1970 or older Lincolns
-No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub frames
-No 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, Limos, etc.
2. Remove all glass, mirrors, plastic, outside body chrome & turn signals. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris. Also, must remove ALL carpet, dash, headliner, rear seats, and any other flammable materials. Must remove Hitches and braces.
3.ZERO frame shaping, forming or folding. Frame notching is okay, but cannot weld. No spray foam in frames.
Tires/Wheels:
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled tires are okay. Doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead.
Bead locks are allowed. They must not go past the rubber on the inside of the tire and the outside must remain inside the factory lip of the rim.
Solid tires are allowed
BUMPERS
1. Bumpers may be loaded. May use an Aftermarket replica bumper or a bumper approved by Ben.
2. You may hard nose your bumper right to the frame. Wagons must leave bumper in factory position in the rear.
3. Bumper Shocks- May use one of the following options:
- If using factory shocks and brackets they may not extend past 14 inches from your bumper. They may be welded solid to frame. All brackets and shocks must touch the bumper.
- use (2) 14 Inch 2x2 square tube mounted on frame, 1 per rail.
- use (2) 4x14x 3/8 bumper straps on one side of the frame only. 1 per frame rail, 2 straps total.
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
5. **NO WELDING or Bolting Further than 14” FROM BACK OF BUMPERS FRONT OR REAR** If you have questions about this, please call.
6. Bumpers can be no higher than 21’’ from the ground to the bottom of the bumper OR lower than 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper.
7. Back bumper/bumper bracket rules are the same as the front.
Drive Train
1.ANY drivetrain allowed with the following criteria. Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed. Mid Plates are NOT allowed. Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory engine mount or aftermarket mount, with rubber bushing attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
2.NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower. You may run the front plate for the engine cradle but cannot extend back at all. Pulley Protector allowed, but must cut sway bar. This is to try and save motor mounts do not abuse this rule. Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything.
You may run multiple bars down or one solid plate that conforms to the transmission. If these bars or plate catch the sheet metal excessively you will be required to cut reliefs into the transmission tunnel. Your trans brace can only be 12” were it meets the transmission cross member, measured from the center of the tail shaft 6” each direction. Trans brace may be no more than 2” off the transmission housing. You are allowed to build a 90-degree angle where it meets the transmission cross member and it may be tied down with 6 inches of weld.
Cross Member:
You may use a straight piece of 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours and must be mounted in the stock location on the transmission. It must be straight from rail to rail.
Tranny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to reinforce the crossmember, must be welded to the frame and crossmember. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. The transmission crossmember and supporting angle iron cannot touch the frame extensions on the Cadillac.
FRAMES
1.) You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches minimum from the front a arm mount hole to the front edge of the frame and frame must be cut square.
2,) 80s and newer cars are allowed to cold bend in one location or cut factory seems apart to bend their cars down as long as no more than the 12” of weld (referred to in next rule) is used to. Do not abuse this rule or you will cut. No cars 1980 or older are allowed frame shape alterations.
3.) You can weld top and bottom factory seam A-arms forward. You are allowed a total of 12” of weld behind the a-arms and the weld must be marked with fluorescent green paint. If you extend past the 12” you will cut daylight out of the frame seam to get it back to 12”. If any welds are ground down to hide you will remove that frame section piece.
9. All factory frame holes must be left open.
10. Any reinforcement of the frame found will result in disqualification
Front SUSPENSION
1.)Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame.
2. Store bought twist in spring spacers are allowed but no metal allowed above top of spring
3. may kick or change coil springs. Must be factory passenger car springs only.
4. two- 2x4x1/4’ straps allowed per a-arm
5. Aftermarket tie rod tubes are allowed (no “Big Chiefs”) with stock size tie rod.
4. Factory spindle swaps are ok- Ford to Chevy, etc. must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
6. Only stock size car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends. If using a weld in ring for ball joint it can not be any bigger than 2” tall by 3” in diameter, do not weld to the frame only the a-arm.
6. You may change A-arms from new style to old style A-arms. Must bolt on- No welding.
7. No all-thread shocks
8. No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame or suspension.
12. Aftermarket steering columns are ok. No Hydro Steering
Rear Suspension:
1. Any rear end allowed. No bracing within 8’’ of frame. Or 4’’ of sheet metal
2. Slider drive shaft is permitted.
3. No leaf spring conversions
4. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 2” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 2” stagger. You can clamp springs, 4 homemade clamps per leaf pack. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. Eyelets must be in factory location of the car you are running. 2” positive arch one direction from center of eyelet to eyelet. Springs have to be factory length to the car your running. No short sprung or longer springs. If you do one or the other you’ll have to change them out. The front and rear bracket has to be the factory bracket. You must have a working shackle throughout the event. Call if you question it.
Coil Springs- You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above.
14. Mounting- You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. This is a standard chain link do not use long 3/8 mooring chain links
Or
you may use 2- 1” all thread going from your rear end through the package tray to hold your rear end in. This may not go through the body.
Use all-thread or chain not both!!
WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS - They must bolt to package tray with 4 – ½” diam. and 1 -¾” Bolt. No welding of the upper brackets to package tray. The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail with a mounting plate of no bigger than 8” square. The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the same way as a 97 and older ford. Lower frame brackets may be ¼” X 6” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located. All unused brackets must be removed from frame.
No gussets may be used on these lower brackets.
Trailing Arms -You may use loaded factory trailing arms or you can manufacture homemade trailing arms out of 2”x3” square tubing, both styles must pivot on both ends and have rubber bushings. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. The upper control arms maybe lengthen or shorted but the lowers must be factory length.
BODY
1. Can change body mounts with 3/4’ body bolts with 2x3x1/4” washer and 1 inch body spacer is mandatory, must be free floating (no welding). Max 8” long. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck body down tight to frame, must be space.
3. No doubling of body panels allowed. No added metal allowed.
4. Doors may be welded solid. Driver and passenger door can have a skin. Skin can be 2’ past door seam.
8. May cut any metal out, No welding on frame.
9. Rust Repair- must be approved. Must send pictures and be approved beforehand. Hole in repair plate will be mandatory.
#9 Wire- You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops). You can weld 5/8” washer for 9 wire to run through on body. Must go from body to body or body to frame. Can not connect to cage or driveline components.
You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the
car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you
remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The
removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The
horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the firewall.
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT
1. Radiator must be in stock position.
2. Any automotive type of radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are okay.
3. DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPPORT.
4. Factory condenser may be bolted in with (4) - 3/8 bolts. NO radiator
guards allowed.
5. Core support spacer must be no bigger than 2x2. You are allowed to weld this on either the top side or bottom, NOT BOTH.
6. May change bolts for Core support to (1’’ threaded rod max) Cannot sleeve all thread. Max of 4 nuts per all thread.
7. (2) 6’’x3’’ x ⅛ flat strap with 4 pieces of ⅜ threaded rod to hold radiator in. Bolted or welded to the core support.
CORE SUPPORT AND CORE SUPPORT MOUNT MUST REMAIN IN FACTORY LOCATION. You may shorten the front frame up to the front body mount, cannot remove the front body mount.
HOODS
MUST BE OPEN AT INSPECTION!
1. Hoods must have two (2) holes, at least four (4) inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor. (16) ⅜ bolts total may be used to hold sheet metal together around cut outs in hood.
2. Hoods may be secured by the 2 pieces of all thread in the core support. May use a 6x6 washer to hold the hood down.
3. (8) LOCATIONS of #9 wire, 5/16 chain or angle iron 2x2x2 inches long weld to top of the hood and fender with a ½ bolt per location. If using straight allthread 1” all thread with 4x4 washer is permitted.
TRUNK
1. Can weld trunk seam solid off using 3x5x1/8” material. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over do not weld any made seam that didn’t meet up factory. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean. You may dish the trunk but must have two 6”x6” inspection holes in the trunk lid for inspection.
No altering the speaker decks
(2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, If welded to the frame it
must come straight down from the trunk lid and can only be welded 4 inches vertically.
If it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame. GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be followed.
6. 6 bolts per fender, 3/8’ 1/2;’ washer.
CAGE
1. All cars must have a safety cage, the cage is meant for safety not strength. You can not use any part of the cage for reinforcement for the car. All cage material must remain 4” away from any part of the drive train.
2. A 4-point cage is required. Your cage must have a dash bar that must be 6” from the firewall.
3. Your cage must have a bar behind the driver’s seat.
4. You must have (2) side bars 1 per side and they cannot be longer than 60’’. 4’’away from the wheel tub.
5. Roll over bar cannot be more than 8” behind the top of the head rest. Rollover bar cannot attach to frame. Weld or bolt it to sheet metal only. Cannot be attached to any body mounts.
6. Rollover bar can be bolted with 2x2x2” angle to the roof, no kickers coming off the cage or rollover bar.
7. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only besides down bars.
8. (4) down posts two (2) per side. Roll over bar counts as 2 if ran to the floor. Must stay behind the front inside door seam and must stay 4” ahead of the rear body mount inside the cab. You can run a 3rd downtube if for driver/rider protection, must be center of door/driver area.
10. All down tubes must be at or behind the dash bar, straight up and down and above the side rail.
11. Gas tank protectors 24’’ wide max. cannot be within 8” of the roof. Tank protector can touch sheet metal. Rear sheet metal cannot be altered. This cannot be pressured into the speaker deck or extend to the trunk area.
13. All down bars / bars / rear bars and halo must be within the 60” door bars. Not in front or behind door bars.
14. Must have (2) 3x ¼” flat strap window bars or #9 wire, chain from roof to cowl. Must bolt in. No welding, cannot re-enforce the car. Sheet metal to sheet metal only.
Plate Rule: Cars are allowed an additional 8 square 6x6x1/8 plates. Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max. They cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all, including cradles/protectors.
03 & Newer Rules:
1. Must use factory rack & pinon, no steering box conversions.
2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. May use aftermarket tie rods.
4. Struts, spindles, a arms may be switched to a direct bolt on. No cutting, welding, and fabbing to make it work. May add a strut spacer, lower spacer can not be bigger than 2 ½” in diameter.
5. Engine Mounting, you may use a cradle like grey area or budde cradle or you can fab your own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt through each aluminum tower, no other attachment points and must remain 1⁄2 inch off the side rail. Repair plates may not be used to tie cradle into the rails.
6. Watts link conversions are allowed, look in watts link conversion section above.
7. No frame seam welding.
Call if you have questions, simple build. Don’t try to read into the rules, you simply will not run. This is a quick easy build.
Ben Porter Head Tech- 573-692-0794 Joshua Wood (573)375-0148