THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CANT.
General Driver Rules & Expectations:
1. Drivers must be at least 16 years old. Under 18 years old must have a parental release.
2. Drivers may have one rider if so desired. This rider must be registered as a rider prior to start of events and also pay an additional entry fee. Riders must also abide by all event regulations. If you register as a driver you must remain the driver throughout the event. Only the driver will be eligible for any money awarded.
3. Drivers are responsible for passengers’ actions while on the track,
4. Drivers may use as many pit personals as desired.
5. Drivers, riders, and crew members must attend pit meetings. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
6. Drivers and all people entering pit area must sign Entry Form and Release of Liability Form prior to entering pit area. Anyone that will be in the pits will have to pay entry fee (driver, rider, crew and anyone staying in the pits). NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!
7. Authorized vehicles only will be allowed in the pit area. No personal vehicles are allowed.
8. A maximum of 5 mph must be always obeyed in the pit area. NO hot rodding in the pit area. This is the fastest way to be disqualified.
9. After entering pit area, all cars are to be inspected in the tech area as soon as possible. ALL cars must be teched and registered 30 minutes before show time.
If you don’t pass inspection, you will be allowed to make the necessary repairs and be re-inspected within 30 minutes prior to the start of the first heat.
***IF CAR DOES NOT PASS INSPECTION OR DRIVER IS UNWILLING TO CHANGE CAR TO PASS INSPECTION ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS!!******
Car Building Rules:
DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, if you do we will not even inspect your car.
1. May be any car with the following exceptions
-No 1970 or older Lincolns
-No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub frames
-No 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, Limos, etc.
2. Remove all glass, mirrors, plastic, outside body chrome & turn signals. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris. Also, must remove ALL carpet, dash, headliner, rear seats, and any other flammable materials. Must remove Hitches and braces.
3. ZERO frame shaping, forming or folding. Frame notching is okay, but cannot weld. No sedagons, fresh or pre run. You can tuck 50% of trunk lid only. Creasing is okay, 6’ dish measured at speaker deck. No spray foam in frames.
Tires/Wheels:
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled tires are okay. Doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead.
BUMPERS
1. Bumpers may be loaded. May use an Aftermarket replica bumper or a bumper approved by Ben.
2. You may hard nose your bumper right to the frame. Wagons must leave bumper in factory position in the rear.
3. Bumper Shocks- May use one of the following options:
4. Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
5. **NO WELDING or Bolting Further than 14” FROM BACK OF BUMPERS FRONT OR REAR** If you have questions about this, please call.
6. Bumpers can be no higher than 21’’ from the ground to the bottom of the bumper OR lower than 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper.
7. Back bumper/bumper bracket rules are the same as the front.
Drive Train
1.ANY drivetrain allowed with the following criteria. Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed. Mid Plates are NOT allowed. Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory engine mount or aftermarket mount, with rubber bushing attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
2.NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower. You may run the front plate for the engine cradle but cannot extend back at all. Pulley Protector allowed, but must cut sway bar. This is to try and save motor mounts do not abuse this rule.
3. Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything. No other protectors allowed on motor or in motor area
4. May run a steel or ultra bell. If running them, they cannot touch any sheet metal.
Cross Member:
No tranny protectors, stock mounting only, stock crossmembers only that came with the car or 2x2x1/4’ square tubing. Can’t lock transmission to cross member. This must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to reinforce the crossmember, must be welded to the frame and crossmember. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side.
FRAMES
1.) You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches minimum from the front a arm mount hole to the front edge of the frame and frame must be cut square.
2,)Can Cold bend, do not cut tabs, do not abuse this rule.
3. All factory frame holes must be left open.
4. Any reinforcement of the frame found will result in disqualification
Front SUSPENSION
1.)Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame.
2. Store bought twist in spring spacers are allowed but no metal allowed above top of spring
3. may kick or change coil springs. Must be factory passenger car springs only.
4. two- 2x4x1/4’ straps allowed per a-arm
5. Tie rods must be oem with factory ends. May weld the factory sleeves. No visible added metal.
4. Factory spindle swaps are ok- Ford to Chevy, etc. must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
6. You may use factory replacement ball joints with new stock ones. No Aftermarket. No welding. No aftermarket rings..
7. No all-thread shocks
8. No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame or suspension.
12. Aftermarket steering columns are ok. No Hydro Steering
Rear Suspension:
1. Any rear end allowed. No bracing within 8’’ of frame. Or 4’’ of sheet metal
2. Slider drive shaft is permitted.
3. No leaf spring conversions
4. Leaf springs must remain 100% stock, must be the same springs that are factory for the car you are running, no swapping or rearranging.
Coil Springs- You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above.
5. Mounting- You may use 3/8 chain or wire from your rear end around the frame / hump. ONE PLACE PER SIDE. NO WELDING.
6. Trailing Arms - Factory Trailing arms must be used.
7. Pinon brake is allowed, must be 4” off sheet metal.
BODY
1. Can change body mounts with 1/2 “ body bolts Max 8” long, with 2x3x1/4” washer and 1 inch body spacer is mandatory, must be free floating (no welding). Do not devise a way that enables you to suck body down tight to frame, must be space.
3. No doubling of body panels allowed. No added metal allowed.
4. Drivers door you may weld solid driver’s door skin is allowed. If you have a passenger, skin is allowed, as well as solid welding. All other doors may be secured in 1 of these ways, not in combination:
- 6 pieces of chain 3/8 per door
-6 pieces of 9 wire per door with 3 wraps
-weld 10 inches total vertical seams only. 3 inch wide door strapping is as big as you can use.
5. Rust Repair- must be approved. Must send pictures and be approved beforehand. Hole in repair plate will be mandatory.
6. #9 Wire- You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops). You can weld 5/8” washer for 9 wire to run through on body. Must go from body to body or body to frame. Can not connect to cage or driveline components. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
7. Must have (2) 3x 3/8” flat strap window bars or #9 wire, chain from roof to cowl. Must bolt in. No welding, cannot re-enforce the car. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. Can be welded to cage, but must be within 4” of sheet metal.
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT
1. Radiator must be in stock position.
2. Any automotive type of radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are okay.
3. DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPPORT.
4. Factory condenser may be bolted in with (4) - 3/8 bolts. NO radiator
guards allowed.
5. Core support spacer must be no bigger than 2x2x6 and must be free floating.
6. May change bolts for Core support to (1’’ threaded rod max) Cannot sleeve all thread. Max of 4 nuts per all thread.
7. (2) 6’’x3’’ x ⅛ flat strap with 4 pieces of ⅜ threaded rod to hold radiator in. Bolted or welded to the core support.
HOODS
MUST BE OPEN AT INSPECTION!
1. Hoods must have two (2) holes, at least four (4) inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor. (8) ⅜ bolts total may be used to hold sheet metal together around cut outs in hood.
2. Hoods may be secured by the 2 pieces of all thread in the core support. May use a 6x6 washer to hold the hood down.
3. (4) LOCATIONS of #9 wire, 5/16 chain or angle iron 2x2x2 inches long weld to top of the hood and fender with a ½ bolt per location. If using straight allthread 1” all thread with 4x4 washer is permitted.
TRUNK
1. You may choose ONE of the following options for your (8) attachment points (6 with the all thread)
6. 6 bolts per fender, 3/8’ 1/2;’ washer.
CAGE
1. All cars must have a safety cage, the cage is meant for safety not strength. You can not use any part of the cage for reinforcement for the car. All cage material must remain 4” away from any part of the drive train.
2. A 4-point cage is required. Your cage must have a dash bar that must be 6” from the firewall.
3. Your cage must have a bar behind the driver’s seat.
4. You must have (2) side bars 1 per side and they cannot be longer than 60’’. 4’’away from the wheel tub.
5. Roll over bar cannot be more than 8” behind the top of the head rest. Rollover bar cannot attach to frame unless used as a downtube. Weld or bolt it to sheet metal only. Cannot be attached to any body mounts.
6. Rollover bar can be bolted with 2x2x2” angle to the roof, no kickers coming off the cage or rollover bar.
7. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only besides down bars.
8. (2) down posts two (2) per side. Roll over bar counts as 2 if ran to the floor. Must stay behind the front inside door seam and must stay 4” ahead of the rear body mount inside the cab. You can run a 3rd downtube if for driver/rider protection, must be center of door/driver area.
10. All down tubes must be at or behind the dash bar, straight up and down and above the side rail.
11. Gas tank protectors 24’’ wide max. cannot be within 8” of the roof. Tank protector can touch sheet metal. Rear sheet metal cannot be altered. This cannot be pressured into the speaker deck or extend to the trunk area.
13. All down bars / bars / rear bars and halo must be within the 60” door bars. Not in front or behind door bars.
Plate Rule: Fresh cars are allowed 2 square 6x6x1/8 plates. Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max. They cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all including cradles/protectors.
You are allowed an additional 2 square 6x6x1/8 plates on pre runs, these must be on physical bends. If it is not a physical bend, it they will come off.
Call if you have questions, simple build. Don’t try to read into the rules, you simply will not run. This is a quick easy build.
Ben Porter Head Tech- 573-692-0794 Joshua Wood (573)375-0148
General Driver Rules & Expectations:
1. Drivers must be at least 16 years old. Under 18 years old must have a parental release.
2. Drivers may have one rider if so desired. This rider must be registered as a rider prior to start of events and also pay an additional entry fee. Riders must also abide by all event regulations. If you register as a driver you must remain the driver throughout the event. Only the driver will be eligible for any money awarded.
3. Drivers are responsible for passengers’ actions while on the track,
4. Drivers may use as many pit personals as desired.
5. Drivers, riders, and crew members must attend pit meetings. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
6. Drivers and all people entering pit area must sign Entry Form and Release of Liability Form prior to entering pit area. Anyone that will be in the pits will have to pay entry fee (driver, rider, crew and anyone staying in the pits). NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!
7. Authorized vehicles only will be allowed in the pit area. No personal vehicles are allowed.
8. A maximum of 5 mph must be always obeyed in the pit area. NO hot rodding in the pit area. This is the fastest way to be disqualified.
9. After entering pit area, all cars are to be inspected in the tech area as soon as possible. ALL cars must be teched and registered 30 minutes before show time.
If you don’t pass inspection, you will be allowed to make the necessary repairs and be re-inspected within 30 minutes prior to the start of the first heat.
***IF CAR DOES NOT PASS INSPECTION OR DRIVER IS UNWILLING TO CHANGE CAR TO PASS INSPECTION ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS!!******
Car Building Rules:
DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, if you do we will not even inspect your car.
1. May be any car with the following exceptions
-No 1970 or older Lincolns
-No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub frames
-No 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, Limos, etc.
2. Remove all glass, mirrors, plastic, outside body chrome & turn signals. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris. Also, must remove ALL carpet, dash, headliner, rear seats, and any other flammable materials. Must remove Hitches and braces.
3. ZERO frame shaping, forming or folding. Frame notching is okay, but cannot weld. No sedagons, fresh or pre run. You can tuck 50% of trunk lid only. Creasing is okay, 6’ dish measured at speaker deck. No spray foam in frames.
Tires/Wheels:
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled tires are okay. Doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead.
BUMPERS
1. Bumpers may be loaded. May use an Aftermarket replica bumper or a bumper approved by Ben.
2. You may hard nose your bumper right to the frame. Wagons must leave bumper in factory position in the rear.
3. Bumper Shocks- May use one of the following options:
- If using factory shocks and brackets they may not extend past 6 inches from your bumper. They may be welded solid to frame. All brackets and shocks must touch the bumper.
- use (2) 6 Inch 2x2 square tube mounted on frame, 1 per rail.
- use (2) 4x6x 3/8 bumper straps on one side of the frame only. 1 per frame rail, 2 straps total.
4. Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
5. **NO WELDING or Bolting Further than 14” FROM BACK OF BUMPERS FRONT OR REAR** If you have questions about this, please call.
6. Bumpers can be no higher than 21’’ from the ground to the bottom of the bumper OR lower than 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper.
7. Back bumper/bumper bracket rules are the same as the front.
Drive Train
1.ANY drivetrain allowed with the following criteria. Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed. Mid Plates are NOT allowed. Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory engine mount or aftermarket mount, with rubber bushing attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
2.NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower. You may run the front plate for the engine cradle but cannot extend back at all. Pulley Protector allowed, but must cut sway bar. This is to try and save motor mounts do not abuse this rule.
3. Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything. No other protectors allowed on motor or in motor area
4. May run a steel or ultra bell. If running them, they cannot touch any sheet metal.
Cross Member:
No tranny protectors, stock mounting only, stock crossmembers only that came with the car or 2x2x1/4’ square tubing. Can’t lock transmission to cross member. This must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to reinforce the crossmember, must be welded to the frame and crossmember. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side.
FRAMES
1.) You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches minimum from the front a arm mount hole to the front edge of the frame and frame must be cut square.
2,)Can Cold bend, do not cut tabs, do not abuse this rule.
3. All factory frame holes must be left open.
4. Any reinforcement of the frame found will result in disqualification
Front SUSPENSION
1.)Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame.
2. Store bought twist in spring spacers are allowed but no metal allowed above top of spring
3. may kick or change coil springs. Must be factory passenger car springs only.
4. two- 2x4x1/4’ straps allowed per a-arm
5. Tie rods must be oem with factory ends. May weld the factory sleeves. No visible added metal.
4. Factory spindle swaps are ok- Ford to Chevy, etc. must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
6. You may use factory replacement ball joints with new stock ones. No Aftermarket. No welding. No aftermarket rings..
7. No all-thread shocks
8. No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame or suspension.
12. Aftermarket steering columns are ok. No Hydro Steering
Rear Suspension:
1. Any rear end allowed. No bracing within 8’’ of frame. Or 4’’ of sheet metal
2. Slider drive shaft is permitted.
3. No leaf spring conversions
4. Leaf springs must remain 100% stock, must be the same springs that are factory for the car you are running, no swapping or rearranging.
Coil Springs- You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above.
5. Mounting- You may use 3/8 chain or wire from your rear end around the frame / hump. ONE PLACE PER SIDE. NO WELDING.
6. Trailing Arms - Factory Trailing arms must be used.
7. Pinon brake is allowed, must be 4” off sheet metal.
BODY
1. Can change body mounts with 1/2 “ body bolts Max 8” long, with 2x3x1/4” washer and 1 inch body spacer is mandatory, must be free floating (no welding). Do not devise a way that enables you to suck body down tight to frame, must be space.
3. No doubling of body panels allowed. No added metal allowed.
4. Drivers door you may weld solid driver’s door skin is allowed. If you have a passenger, skin is allowed, as well as solid welding. All other doors may be secured in 1 of these ways, not in combination:
- 6 pieces of chain 3/8 per door
-6 pieces of 9 wire per door with 3 wraps
-weld 10 inches total vertical seams only. 3 inch wide door strapping is as big as you can use.
5. Rust Repair- must be approved. Must send pictures and be approved beforehand. Hole in repair plate will be mandatory.
6. #9 Wire- You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops). You can weld 5/8” washer for 9 wire to run through on body. Must go from body to body or body to frame. Can not connect to cage or driveline components. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
7. Must have (2) 3x 3/8” flat strap window bars or #9 wire, chain from roof to cowl. Must bolt in. No welding, cannot re-enforce the car. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. Can be welded to cage, but must be within 4” of sheet metal.
RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT
1. Radiator must be in stock position.
2. Any automotive type of radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are okay.
3. DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPPORT.
4. Factory condenser may be bolted in with (4) - 3/8 bolts. NO radiator
guards allowed.
5. Core support spacer must be no bigger than 2x2x6 and must be free floating.
6. May change bolts for Core support to (1’’ threaded rod max) Cannot sleeve all thread. Max of 4 nuts per all thread.
7. (2) 6’’x3’’ x ⅛ flat strap with 4 pieces of ⅜ threaded rod to hold radiator in. Bolted or welded to the core support.
HOODS
MUST BE OPEN AT INSPECTION!
1. Hoods must have two (2) holes, at least four (4) inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor. (8) ⅜ bolts total may be used to hold sheet metal together around cut outs in hood.
2. Hoods may be secured by the 2 pieces of all thread in the core support. May use a 6x6 washer to hold the hood down.
3. (4) LOCATIONS of #9 wire, 5/16 chain or angle iron 2x2x2 inches long weld to top of the hood and fender with a ½ bolt per location. If using straight allthread 1” all thread with 4x4 washer is permitted.
TRUNK
1. You may choose ONE of the following options for your (8) attachment points (6 with the all thread)
- a) (8) attachment point places of #9 wire to sheet metal only.
- b) (8) 3/8 bolts and washers through the rain channel.
- c) angle 2x2x2 inches long weld to top of the trunk and quarter panel with a ½ bolt per location.
- d) you may weld 8- 3”x3” 1/8” flat stap to hold trunk down.
6. 6 bolts per fender, 3/8’ 1/2;’ washer.
CAGE
1. All cars must have a safety cage, the cage is meant for safety not strength. You can not use any part of the cage for reinforcement for the car. All cage material must remain 4” away from any part of the drive train.
2. A 4-point cage is required. Your cage must have a dash bar that must be 6” from the firewall.
3. Your cage must have a bar behind the driver’s seat.
4. You must have (2) side bars 1 per side and they cannot be longer than 60’’. 4’’away from the wheel tub.
5. Roll over bar cannot be more than 8” behind the top of the head rest. Rollover bar cannot attach to frame unless used as a downtube. Weld or bolt it to sheet metal only. Cannot be attached to any body mounts.
6. Rollover bar can be bolted with 2x2x2” angle to the roof, no kickers coming off the cage or rollover bar.
7. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only besides down bars.
8. (2) down posts two (2) per side. Roll over bar counts as 2 if ran to the floor. Must stay behind the front inside door seam and must stay 4” ahead of the rear body mount inside the cab. You can run a 3rd downtube if for driver/rider protection, must be center of door/driver area.
10. All down tubes must be at or behind the dash bar, straight up and down and above the side rail.
11. Gas tank protectors 24’’ wide max. cannot be within 8” of the roof. Tank protector can touch sheet metal. Rear sheet metal cannot be altered. This cannot be pressured into the speaker deck or extend to the trunk area.
13. All down bars / bars / rear bars and halo must be within the 60” door bars. Not in front or behind door bars.
Plate Rule: Fresh cars are allowed 2 square 6x6x1/8 plates. Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max. They cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all including cradles/protectors.
You are allowed an additional 2 square 6x6x1/8 plates on pre runs, these must be on physical bends. If it is not a physical bend, it they will come off.
Call if you have questions, simple build. Don’t try to read into the rules, you simply will not run. This is a quick easy build.
Ben Porter Head Tech- 573-692-0794 Joshua Wood (573)375-0148