General Rules
***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!!
1. All rules will be followed, or you will not run!!
2. Any 80’s and Newer American make sedan or station wagon can be run.
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event!
4. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection.
5. ALL drivers and crew members must attend the drivers’ meeting.
6. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
7. Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation.
8. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified! You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up.
9. No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
10. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may pro-test another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to pro-test. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
11. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! Judges’ decisions are FINAL!!!
Car Preparation
1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
3. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!
4. Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims. Full weld in centers and beam protectors allowed.
5. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in event.
6. Driver must have safety approved glasses or face shield. Driver needs to have Full face helmets.
7. You must use a radiator, and it must be in stock location. All cars must have working brakes.
9. A-arms, ball joints remain stock.
10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
11. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered.
No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! The fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be.
12. Transmission coolers will be allowed but must be safe and properly secured.
13. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered.
14. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.
Car building:
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in the below rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what’s allowed, you will not run!!
2.*** NEW*** Doors may be chained, wired or bolted in 8 spots or you may weld the vertical door seams with a total of 10 inches and must be
sheet metal to sheet metal. When welding vertical seams use no wider than 3-inch materials. Drivers’ door may be welded shut inside and outside solidly with no bigger then 3” strap material.
3. For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the top of the frame or floor and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be in front of body mount in back seat area. Mopar’s can only be in front of spring mount. You will be allowed 2 down bars on the inside on driver’s and passenger’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Down bars must be behind inside of front door interior seam or will be cut out. Down bars must stop at top side of frame and can be welded to top of frame only, no added metal! Cage materials no bigger than 6-inch X 6-inch for any part of the cage.
At any point in the event, if your cage touches, gussets or re-enforces the car by hit, touching or bouncing any part of the drivetrain against the cage, you will be DQ’ed!!!!
Gas tank protectors are allowed, no wider than 24 inches, must be completely (top & bottom) 2” away from rear sheet metal. It must run straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. The protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but roll bar and back seat bar! You are allowed to connect the Roll loop behind gas tank to uprights of Halo bar behind seat. Only 1 connector bar on each side. Halo behind gas tank maybe angled but must remain 2 inches away from all sheet metal. Do Not beat sheet metal away from Gas tank protector!
Gas tank protectors must be NO wider than 24inches across the back- 6inch tall on back with 2-inch gap between all sheet metal around back side of gas tank protector. No smashing/beating back of sheet metal. Tank Protector
can only be attached to cage only with nothing attaching up or down to body/frame. You may gusset to back seat bar and Roll loop/Halo only. Must be 4 inches off floor and stay below where speaker deck attaches to floor! You are allowed a loop behind, up off your gas tanks protector, but must be straight up and not angled. Nothing higher up than 4 inches above gas tank. Loop can have 2 cage bars off roll over bar uprights only. The uprights cannot attach to anything but the tank protector.
Cage materials no bigger than 6x6 tubing may be used and all side bars, cross bars must be 6 inch off flooring minimum. Only 1 side bar allowed on passenger’s side of car and Driver’s side door only may have a second side bar with a 2 gap from other driver’s side – side bar. Second side bar must stay in between the driver’s door interior seams.
If you try to use a cage to re-enforce car (judge’s decision) you will be asked to cut or change it.
******YOU MUST HAVE A BAR/PIPE FROM DOOR POST TO DOOR POST WELDED MINIMUM, IN ORDER TO RUN.
Bumpers:
4. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper may be used on any car. No homemade bumpers. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Must use factory front bumper bracket that come with the car. Bumpers and brackets may be welded solid. Brackets must stay factory length or can be shortened but you CAN’T stretch out brackets to make longer. Bumper brackets must stay in factory location, NO relocating of brackets. Bumpers may be stuffed inside of Original bumper only. Bracket can be welded solid but can only be welded to 1 side of the frame, don’t wrap bracket unless it came out factory that way.
You may have 4 spots wire or 3/8 chain from front bumper to radiator support- 4 spots from rear bumper to trunk lid. Front Bumper can NOT be any higher than 30 inches from top center. Rear bumpers can NOT be lower than 18 Inches from top center of bumper. This rule is to help cut down of the issue of roll over and safety of this issue.
HOOD/TRUNKS:
7. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire. You will be allowed 8 spots to hold the hood down (bolts, chain or wire); you MUST have at least 4 spots holding hood down- hood hinges don’t count! Hood hold down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
8. Trunk lid and Tailgates may be welded shut up to 10 inches total on trunk lid. May not us bigger than 3 inch strap materials.
Trunk lid must have a12 inch X 12 inch hole cut in center of trunk lid for inspection.
9. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of wagon roof!
10. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid or tailgate and may go around the frame with the wire or you are allowed 2- 1 inch althread from trunk lid or tailgate threw factory body mount holes in frame. Nut and washers must be up inside the frame like factory, must have a 1 inch spacer between body and frame. 1 – 3 inch X 3 inch washer on floor with 1- 3 inch X 3 inch washer on trunk lid with 1 nut. CAN’T DO BOTH.
BODY MOUNTS:
12. Body mounts must remain stock, No added body mounts allowed! Do not remove any part of the factory body mount including steel shim that inside rubber mount! Don’t touch them. If mount is rusted out you may use wire to wrap from floor around frame in that location.
13. The front 2 Radiator Support mounts may be replaced with 1 inch all thread. All thread may go from mount up to the hood. This must be stock all thread, no sleeved all thread, no pipe, tubing, etc. Body mount spacer can be up to 3 X3 – 6 inches Long. NO welding spacer.
SUSPENSION:
14. Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, NO adding springs. Stock springs only! You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can loop chain or wire from rear end or springs to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger then #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used. You may double your coil springs. Leaf spring cars will be
allowed 4 clamps total on each spring pack. NO adding spring clamps. All suspension must be the same type and style that came on the car from factory. No suspension swaps!
Front A-arms are allowed 1 of the following options to get height- Only one of the 3 options below.
A. You will be allowed 1, ½ inch bolt that can be butt welded to frame or bolted threw frame in center of A-arm with 1- ¾ washer and nut.
B. You may weld 1- chain link to frame and weld 1 chain link to A-arm. Only one spot!
C. You are allowed 1 – 2x4- ¼ inch strap welded to A-arm and to frame, but only 1 strap.
15. Rear end control arm must be stock and can’t be reinforced. You may shorten the bottom rear control arms to get you pinion angle. You may only lap over factory stock control arm 2 inches and weld back together with no added metal! This must be done in the center of the lower control arm only.
16. Must use factory 5 lug rear ends with factory parts- axles-brakes-etc. You can use a spool inside the rearend to make posi-track. You can swap out rear ends from a different car but must be a factory rear end only. You may change rears from one car to another. Gm to ford, Ford to Gm, Mopar to Gm, etc. Stock rear ends only No homemade No bracing No aftermarket axles, etc. Axles will be pulled for inspection. All axles must be a factory stock axle, no aftermarket axles, no factory replacement axles. Brass bushing on axles is allowed.
17. Rear-end housing may not be re-enforced!
ENGINE MOUNTING:
18. Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle. The engine must be mounted in stock location. Front Lower cradle and pulley protector will be allowed!!! Stock mounts only! Nothing else to hold motor!!
19. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame).
20. You may have a 2-3/8” chains from the motor head to frame and must go around frame next to A-arm on front side of motor.
STEERING:
21.Tie-rods, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspensions must remain factory stock parts. The steering column may be changed to aftermarket shafts. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc are ALLOWED.
FENDERS:
22. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less. The fender bolts must remain above the tires only!
MISC:
23. For safety, ** Hardtop cars may have a 4-inch-wide strap welded at the door post to the roof. You must have 2 bars, wires or chains in the windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons.
24. You can run shifter through floor, and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
25. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire in each window opening and may go to the frame. No welding washers around holes on car body. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, this can not be bolted to the frame.
***26. NO Distributor cap protectors! May shorten or length drive shaft. May use longer front yoke on drive shaft. Slider Driveshafts are allowed.
***27. Aftermarket gas pedal and brake pedals are allowed if not used to re-enforce car!!!! Must be mounted to cage or body. Not to frame or used as a gusset to re-enforce the car in any way.
***28. No frame shaping except to beating in the sides only of rear arches over tires. Nothing else.
***29. NO body shaping! No using fender bolts to shape body.
**30. Slider Drive shafts are allowed along with Pinion Brakes. Pinion brakes must be welded to axle tunes next to center section with nothing coming off the braces.
31. You are allowed to cold bend frame either up or down in 1 spot each side. This is to be done under the doors in side rails.
No stretching out frame to lengthen or shorten frames. If it is found that has been done, you will be loaded.
32. Front or rear frames may be shortened to the body mount holes/brackets. If a car come with a body mount bracket complete bracket must remain. Otherwise, the complete body mount hole must remain!
RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
We are allowing 8 - 6x6-1/8 thick shaped plates. No folding plates to double/triple over. Plates must be square plates to start with before they shape them.
Plates are only for repairing bent areas of the frame.
33. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted-out area, leave the rust in place.
34. Bent frames may be repaired with 1/8-inch metal. Repair plates can only be 6 inches x 6 inches – 1/8-inch-thick square repair plates.
The Repair plates may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2-inch hole in the plates. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-plating or layering of plates. You are only allowed a total of 6 plates on the car. If we can’t tell if the frame was bent, plates will be cut off!!! Must have 1 inch gap between welds.
35. Re-stubbing of frames must be same make/model., 80’s to 80’s, etc. Gm to Gm, Mopar to Mopar, etc. No caddy frames or stubs under NON-Caddy cars!!!!!! You will be allowed to weld the frame together then wrap the frame where welded together with a 1 inch wide 1/8th inch strap completely around the weld. No cutting of frame seams and re-weld frame in place!!! Must be behind tranny cross member.
All repair plates are now 6-inch X 6-inch square plates- 1/8 inch thick.
Repair plates can be shaped. Shaping allowed- You can rib, crease plates. No folding plate over itself. NO Taco plates. No cutting plate
Plates must remain Flat on frame, but you can follow the original shape of the frame with the plate. This means that you can fold the plate over the top, under the bottom or even fold the plate from the front of box to the engine front rail but the plate must be flat against the frame. No Doming repair plates. All plate must have ½ hole for inspection. You may plug weld plates to frame. All plates can only be connected to the frame rails, nothing to suspension, A-arm straps, nothing to frame brackets, car body or driver train, and or cage.
***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!!
1. All rules will be followed, or you will not run!!
2. Any 80’s and Newer American make sedan or station wagon can be run.
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event!
4. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection.
5. ALL drivers and crew members must attend the drivers’ meeting.
6. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
7. Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation.
8. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified! You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up.
9. No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
10. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may pro-test another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to pro-test. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
11. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! Judges’ decisions are FINAL!!!
Car Preparation
1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
3. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!
4. Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims. Full weld in centers and beam protectors allowed.
5. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in event.
6. Driver must have safety approved glasses or face shield. Driver needs to have Full face helmets.
7. You must use a radiator, and it must be in stock location. All cars must have working brakes.
9. A-arms, ball joints remain stock.
10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
11. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered.
No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! The fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be.
12. Transmission coolers will be allowed but must be safe and properly secured.
13. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered.
14. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.
Car building:
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in the below rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what’s allowed, you will not run!!
2.*** NEW*** Doors may be chained, wired or bolted in 8 spots or you may weld the vertical door seams with a total of 10 inches and must be
sheet metal to sheet metal. When welding vertical seams use no wider than 3-inch materials. Drivers’ door may be welded shut inside and outside solidly with no bigger then 3” strap material.
3. For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the top of the frame or floor and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be in front of body mount in back seat area. Mopar’s can only be in front of spring mount. You will be allowed 2 down bars on the inside on driver’s and passenger’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Down bars must be behind inside of front door interior seam or will be cut out. Down bars must stop at top side of frame and can be welded to top of frame only, no added metal! Cage materials no bigger than 6-inch X 6-inch for any part of the cage.
At any point in the event, if your cage touches, gussets or re-enforces the car by hit, touching or bouncing any part of the drivetrain against the cage, you will be DQ’ed!!!!
Gas tank protectors are allowed, no wider than 24 inches, must be completely (top & bottom) 2” away from rear sheet metal. It must run straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. The protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but roll bar and back seat bar! You are allowed to connect the Roll loop behind gas tank to uprights of Halo bar behind seat. Only 1 connector bar on each side. Halo behind gas tank maybe angled but must remain 2 inches away from all sheet metal. Do Not beat sheet metal away from Gas tank protector!
Gas tank protectors must be NO wider than 24inches across the back- 6inch tall on back with 2-inch gap between all sheet metal around back side of gas tank protector. No smashing/beating back of sheet metal. Tank Protector
can only be attached to cage only with nothing attaching up or down to body/frame. You may gusset to back seat bar and Roll loop/Halo only. Must be 4 inches off floor and stay below where speaker deck attaches to floor! You are allowed a loop behind, up off your gas tanks protector, but must be straight up and not angled. Nothing higher up than 4 inches above gas tank. Loop can have 2 cage bars off roll over bar uprights only. The uprights cannot attach to anything but the tank protector.
Cage materials no bigger than 6x6 tubing may be used and all side bars, cross bars must be 6 inch off flooring minimum. Only 1 side bar allowed on passenger’s side of car and Driver’s side door only may have a second side bar with a 2 gap from other driver’s side – side bar. Second side bar must stay in between the driver’s door interior seams.
If you try to use a cage to re-enforce car (judge’s decision) you will be asked to cut or change it.
******YOU MUST HAVE A BAR/PIPE FROM DOOR POST TO DOOR POST WELDED MINIMUM, IN ORDER TO RUN.
Bumpers:
4. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper may be used on any car. No homemade bumpers. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Must use factory front bumper bracket that come with the car. Bumpers and brackets may be welded solid. Brackets must stay factory length or can be shortened but you CAN’T stretch out brackets to make longer. Bumper brackets must stay in factory location, NO relocating of brackets. Bumpers may be stuffed inside of Original bumper only. Bracket can be welded solid but can only be welded to 1 side of the frame, don’t wrap bracket unless it came out factory that way.
You may have 4 spots wire or 3/8 chain from front bumper to radiator support- 4 spots from rear bumper to trunk lid. Front Bumper can NOT be any higher than 30 inches from top center. Rear bumpers can NOT be lower than 18 Inches from top center of bumper. This rule is to help cut down of the issue of roll over and safety of this issue.
HOOD/TRUNKS:
7. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire. You will be allowed 8 spots to hold the hood down (bolts, chain or wire); you MUST have at least 4 spots holding hood down- hood hinges don’t count! Hood hold down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
8. Trunk lid and Tailgates may be welded shut up to 10 inches total on trunk lid. May not us bigger than 3 inch strap materials.
Trunk lid must have a12 inch X 12 inch hole cut in center of trunk lid for inspection.
9. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of wagon roof!
10. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid or tailgate and may go around the frame with the wire or you are allowed 2- 1 inch althread from trunk lid or tailgate threw factory body mount holes in frame. Nut and washers must be up inside the frame like factory, must have a 1 inch spacer between body and frame. 1 – 3 inch X 3 inch washer on floor with 1- 3 inch X 3 inch washer on trunk lid with 1 nut. CAN’T DO BOTH.
BODY MOUNTS:
12. Body mounts must remain stock, No added body mounts allowed! Do not remove any part of the factory body mount including steel shim that inside rubber mount! Don’t touch them. If mount is rusted out you may use wire to wrap from floor around frame in that location.
13. The front 2 Radiator Support mounts may be replaced with 1 inch all thread. All thread may go from mount up to the hood. This must be stock all thread, no sleeved all thread, no pipe, tubing, etc. Body mount spacer can be up to 3 X3 – 6 inches Long. NO welding spacer.
SUSPENSION:
14. Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, NO adding springs. Stock springs only! You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can loop chain or wire from rear end or springs to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger then #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used. You may double your coil springs. Leaf spring cars will be
allowed 4 clamps total on each spring pack. NO adding spring clamps. All suspension must be the same type and style that came on the car from factory. No suspension swaps!
Front A-arms are allowed 1 of the following options to get height- Only one of the 3 options below.
A. You will be allowed 1, ½ inch bolt that can be butt welded to frame or bolted threw frame in center of A-arm with 1- ¾ washer and nut.
B. You may weld 1- chain link to frame and weld 1 chain link to A-arm. Only one spot!
C. You are allowed 1 – 2x4- ¼ inch strap welded to A-arm and to frame, but only 1 strap.
15. Rear end control arm must be stock and can’t be reinforced. You may shorten the bottom rear control arms to get you pinion angle. You may only lap over factory stock control arm 2 inches and weld back together with no added metal! This must be done in the center of the lower control arm only.
16. Must use factory 5 lug rear ends with factory parts- axles-brakes-etc. You can use a spool inside the rearend to make posi-track. You can swap out rear ends from a different car but must be a factory rear end only. You may change rears from one car to another. Gm to ford, Ford to Gm, Mopar to Gm, etc. Stock rear ends only No homemade No bracing No aftermarket axles, etc. Axles will be pulled for inspection. All axles must be a factory stock axle, no aftermarket axles, no factory replacement axles. Brass bushing on axles is allowed.
17. Rear-end housing may not be re-enforced!
ENGINE MOUNTING:
18. Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle. The engine must be mounted in stock location. Front Lower cradle and pulley protector will be allowed!!! Stock mounts only! Nothing else to hold motor!!
19. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame).
20. You may have a 2-3/8” chains from the motor head to frame and must go around frame next to A-arm on front side of motor.
STEERING:
21.Tie-rods, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspensions must remain factory stock parts. The steering column may be changed to aftermarket shafts. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc are ALLOWED.
FENDERS:
22. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less. The fender bolts must remain above the tires only!
MISC:
23. For safety, ** Hardtop cars may have a 4-inch-wide strap welded at the door post to the roof. You must have 2 bars, wires or chains in the windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons.
24. You can run shifter through floor, and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
25. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire in each window opening and may go to the frame. No welding washers around holes on car body. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, this can not be bolted to the frame.
***26. NO Distributor cap protectors! May shorten or length drive shaft. May use longer front yoke on drive shaft. Slider Driveshafts are allowed.
***27. Aftermarket gas pedal and brake pedals are allowed if not used to re-enforce car!!!! Must be mounted to cage or body. Not to frame or used as a gusset to re-enforce the car in any way.
***28. No frame shaping except to beating in the sides only of rear arches over tires. Nothing else.
***29. NO body shaping! No using fender bolts to shape body.
**30. Slider Drive shafts are allowed along with Pinion Brakes. Pinion brakes must be welded to axle tunes next to center section with nothing coming off the braces.
31. You are allowed to cold bend frame either up or down in 1 spot each side. This is to be done under the doors in side rails.
No stretching out frame to lengthen or shorten frames. If it is found that has been done, you will be loaded.
32. Front or rear frames may be shortened to the body mount holes/brackets. If a car come with a body mount bracket complete bracket must remain. Otherwise, the complete body mount hole must remain!
RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
We are allowing 8 - 6x6-1/8 thick shaped plates. No folding plates to double/triple over. Plates must be square plates to start with before they shape them.
Plates are only for repairing bent areas of the frame.
33. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted-out area, leave the rust in place.
34. Bent frames may be repaired with 1/8-inch metal. Repair plates can only be 6 inches x 6 inches – 1/8-inch-thick square repair plates.
The Repair plates may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2-inch hole in the plates. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-plating or layering of plates. You are only allowed a total of 6 plates on the car. If we can’t tell if the frame was bent, plates will be cut off!!! Must have 1 inch gap between welds.
35. Re-stubbing of frames must be same make/model., 80’s to 80’s, etc. Gm to Gm, Mopar to Mopar, etc. No caddy frames or stubs under NON-Caddy cars!!!!!! You will be allowed to weld the frame together then wrap the frame where welded together with a 1 inch wide 1/8th inch strap completely around the weld. No cutting of frame seams and re-weld frame in place!!! Must be behind tranny cross member.
All repair plates are now 6-inch X 6-inch square plates- 1/8 inch thick.
Repair plates can be shaped. Shaping allowed- You can rib, crease plates. No folding plate over itself. NO Taco plates. No cutting plate
Plates must remain Flat on frame, but you can follow the original shape of the frame with the plate. This means that you can fold the plate over the top, under the bottom or even fold the plate from the front of box to the engine front rail but the plate must be flat against the frame. No Doming repair plates. All plate must have ½ hole for inspection. You may plug weld plates to frame. All plates can only be connected to the frame rails, nothing to suspension, A-arm straps, nothing to frame brackets, car body or driver train, and or cage.